ABOUT THE PRODUCER: As he tells it, Bryan Martin established Ravensworth in Murrumbateman with his partner Jocelyn and brother David in 2001 because “it seemed like a good idea at the time.” This former chef, restaurant critic, food writer and winemaker at Clonakilla is known for his emotional symbiosis with the region and his exceptionally good taste. And that’s the constant to Bryan’s wines: they express the region, and they taste good. Really good. Martin’s approach is deliberately unconventional—he produces a range of brilliant, regionally classic wines, offset by a decent smattering of genre-bending experiments. Shiraz is the main crop on the Ravensworth Estate, followed by Riesling and Sangiovese. Then there’s Rhône white varietals, Gamay and Nebbiolo. Not only does Martin use a wide range of varieties, but clonal differences across these are also utilized for complexity and tonality. Everything at the Estate is grown with organic principles and the vineyard is consciously farmed as an element of a wider ecosystem in balance with other flora and fauna so it can develop to its greatest potential. This balance limits any chemicals or other nasties. A little old Italian tractor is employed rather than heavy machinery, and likewise in the cellar, the winemaking uses a light touch. There’s no recipe—a range of techniques and vessels are used, always dependent on what the vintage presents.