ABOUT THE PRODUCER: Place of Changing Winds is a high-density vineyard in the southern foothills of Mount Macedon in central Victoria, Australia. It was established in 2012 by Robert Walters, who runs the estate with manager Rémi Jacquemain. The estate covers just over three hectares of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and is planted to 45,000 vines at densities up to 33,000 per hectare. Viticulture is painstaking and labour-intensive, with nine people employed full-time, equating to three people per hectare. It’s a cool site 500 metres above sea level, surrounded by native plantings and thousands of hectares of forest. The soil is eroded quartz, sandstone and quartzite over clay and silt, as well as eroded basalt. The Place of Changing Winds Estate wines (a single Chardonnay and a range of Pinot Noirs) are made in small quantities and sold on allocation, with a small number of large-format bottlings produced. Place of Changing Winds also produces a range of Grower Series wines (Syrah and Marsanne) sourced from like-minded growers in Heathcote and Harcourt. It also makes the Tradition Series (a red and white blend) in certain years.